Every gardener's goal is to achieve a bountiful harvest. Due to unstable weather, various types of greenhouses and hotbeds come to our aid. However, simply building them isn't enough. It's important to properly organize the space, determine the location of the beds in the greenhouse, what materials they'll be made of, and much more. We'll cover all of this in detail in this article.
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Features of placing beds in a greenhouse
The layout of the beds in a greenhouse should be considered during its construction. There is no standard layout for beds, as these structures can come in a variety of shapes and sizes.
In smaller plots, greenhouses are typically used. Larger plots have enough space for hothouses. Of course, the layout of the beds will differ in these cases, at least in their number and size. However, there are a number of guidelines that will help you fill the space correctly, ultimately allowing you to plant more crops.
Placement of beds according to the cardinal directions
The classic orientation is north-south. However, low-growing plants are still recommended to be placed facing west, toward the sunrise.
When a greenhouse is built on a slope, the beds should be oriented south, and the plants should be planted perpendicular to the slope. Each subsequent planting should be higher than the previous one, ensuring the crops receive the necessary amount of light.
Organization of space
The beds are divided into:
- ground (stationary, located directly on the surface of the earth);
- rack (this group includes hanging and vertical containers installed on shelves).
The initial design plan is created before the greenhouse is built. Rows and aisles are marked out in advance, along with locations for various equipment (such as heaters and irrigation systems), and a drainage system is installed. Planting boxes or formwork are installed on the ground and filled with nutritious soil mix.
The shelving is installed in the finished structure. The principle is simple: pots and containers with plants are placed on shelves arranged in several rows. This saves space and allows for growing more plants in a small space. Most importantly, they are spaced at a distance that allows each plant to receive adequate light and air. The distance between shelves depends on the height of the plants. You can make the shelving yourself.
Helpful information! You can also organize your space by hanging containers from a roof beam. This is typically used for growing low-growing, fast-growing crops, such as strawberries or herbs. This method requires planning an irrigation system and supplemental lighting, and considering crop rotation.
Everything in the room should be arranged so that it's easy to move around. If you're growing tall crops, including vines, make sure the passages aren't too narrow (at least 0.5 m). This will allow plenty of light to reach the lower parts of the crops, where the first fruits will appear more quickly.
A path should be built from the entrance to the center. A work area can be created in the middle. If the structure is arched, it's best to place the garden beds along the walls in a circular pattern. Their width should not exceed 1 meter. By following these guidelines, you can efficiently organize almost the entire area.
Garden bed layouts
Properly planned garden beds ensure not only the proper plant growth but also the ease of planting. Common row layouts are shown below.
The two-bed method is the simplest. It's suitable for growing trellis crops, as well as those requiring a larger growing area (cucumbers and others).
Advantages of 2 beds:
- almost the entire area is used;
- ease of installation, minimal amount of additional materials.
2 beds in a greenhouse also have disadvantages:
- If you don't thin out the rows, the plantings will become too dense;
- Wide beds are difficult to work with.
A three-row layout is much more convenient if space allows. The middle bed can be arranged lengthwise, right up to the back wall of the structure, if there's no second door. This ensures the plants receive plenty of light and air, making them comfortable to work with. However, it can be a bit awkward to navigate the narrow rows.
Please note! It's best to make the door lockable. This is necessary to prevent it from opening and being torn off its hinges in strong winds. Always have a set of spare keys so that if you lose one, you won't have to break down the door.
Secrets of arranging beds depending on their type
The choice of type depends on the shape and size of the greenhouse and the crops to be grown. Most importantly, the planting rows should be easy to maintain.
Classification depending on the size of the beds:
- wide with narrowed passages;
- medium-sized with spacious paths;
- narrow (according to Mittlider and others);
- original with an unusual shape.
According to the type of soil creation, it can be classified as follows:
- warm organic;
- ordinary;
- warm with electric heating;
- on hydroponics.
When choosing a garden bed type, you also need to consider how much you're willing to spend. For example, heated beds will cost more than organic ones.
Mittlider's garden beds
Many gardeners use this method of organizing space.
As practice shows, it allows to improve plant yields:
- planting of peppers and other plants is carried out from north to south;
- the width of the planting boxes is 45 cm, crops are planted in two rows;
- passages from 0.9 m;
- the soil in the beds should be smooth so that water and nutrients are evenly distributed among the roots;
- on one edge there is a 10 cm high border made of boards or soil;
- if the groundwater is too close to the surface, you need to install planting boxes at a certain distance from the ground (calculated individually);
- The total height of the structure is 60 cm in marshy areas and 10-20 cm in normal areas.
Please note! Before proceeding with the Mittlider design, you must first determine the location for equipment and inventory.
Raised beds
This is a separate type of garden bed that is located above the main soil surface.
Thanks to this, the soil warms up faster, plants develop better, and they are easier to care for.
An example of creating raised beds:
| Illustration | Step-by-step actions |
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Having chosen the layout of the beds, we make markings. |
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We build formwork approximately 1 m high or install 40 cm high boxes on supports. |
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We add branches, wood chips, reeds, or corn stalks, mixing them with a sawdust-sand mixture beforehand. We compact them. |
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Add a nutritious soil mixture. For example, turf, peat, sawdust, and sand in a ratio of 3:3:1:1. |
You can also fill the boxes with special fillers for a “warm bed”, which will be discussed below.
Helpful information! Formwork can be constructed from materials left over from construction on the site. For example, metal sheets, slate, polycarbonate, plastic bottles, etc.
Warm beds
Warm beds (with maximum soil heating) are classified by the type of biological filler:
- With a wooden pillowIt is placed in a trench 0.4 meters deep. First, a wood layer is laid out, consisting of pieces of rotted stumps, logs, bark, and wood chips. Boiling water is poured over the top to accelerate rotting. Next, a layer of dry manure is added. Horse manure is best, as it can heat up to 70 degrees Celsius and maintain that temperature for 3-4 weeks. Fresh manure should not be used, as it will burn the roots.
- With straw or leaf fillingA trench is also dug, but to the depth of a spade blade. Chopped straw, dry leaves, or any other plant debris, including food scraps such as potato peelings, are placed in the trench. The contents of the trench are compacted, poured with boiling water, and covered with dark plastic wrap. The trench is left to warm for 5-7 days. After this time, a 30 cm layer of fertile soil is added.
Helpful information! Products that accelerate the decay process are available in stores. They're easy to use; simply pour the prepared solution into the trenches.
How to make a heated garden bed
You can create rows with automatic heating. Mats with infrared electric cables or hot pipes are laid on the ground. A waterproofing layer is placed on top, and the entire system is covered with fertile soil. If you have no experience with this type of heating system, it's best not to attempt it yourself; instead, entrust it to professionals. This setup allows you to grow plants even in winter.
The arrangement of beds in a greenhouse is 2.4 by 4 m
In a greenhouse measuring 2.4 m by 4 m, the beds can only be arranged in two rows, each 0.9 m wide. These can accommodate two rows of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. However, cucumbers are best planted in a single row. The aisle width in this case is 0.6 m, allowing for easy access with a wheelbarrow.
The arrangement of beds in a 3 by 4 m greenhouse
Greenhouses measuring 3 m by 4 m don't take up much space, yet they can accommodate a fairly large number of crops. The following guidelines should be followed:
- Plants must receive light and be well ventilated.
- Make beds along the walls.
- It's preferable for the rows to face west. This will ensure high-quality lighting and maximize daylight hours.
- Provide conditions for daily care of plants (drip and regular irrigation systems, storage space for equipment, etc.).
- The beds are approximately 40 cm higher than the passage and 45 cm wide.
If you are using a two-bed layout, make rows along two walls 1-1.2 m wide. Use the remaining area to create a path.
The planting pattern can be two rows, in a square nest pattern. If bush plants are planted, it is recommended to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. Using a two-bed pattern, 50 plants can be planted in a 3 x 4 m greenhouse. This is best done with low-growing plants such as watermelons, melons, and pumpkins.
For a greenhouse of this size and for tall crops, it's preferable to plant three rows. This will allow for efficient use of space and allow for movement.
There are several location options:
The beds can be made quite wide, narrowing the paths slightly. It's best to use a staggered planting pattern or a square-nest pattern on the sides and a single row in the middle.
You can narrow the side beds or make the middle one wider. Then, plant a single row of plants around the perimeter, and two in the middle row, allowing for easy access to each seedling.
If you make 30 cm paths, one bed will accommodate up to 25 bushes.
You can use the space rationally by making an end bed on the opposite side from the entrance.
The arrangement of beds in a 3 by 6 m greenhouse
This design can accommodate a large number of plants, but it also takes up a fair amount of space in the garden. Despite its large size, the arrangement of the beds in a 3 x 6 meter greenhouse still requires careful consideration.
The frame of such a greenhouse is usually made from profile pipes. It is most often used to create walls. polycarbonate, less often they are made of glass or polyethylene film, spunbond.
With ample space inside, you can add shelves to accommodate even more plants.
Principle of the device:
- along the walls along the long part of the greenhouse there are 2 wide beds;
- shelves are placed in free spaces near the walls;
- A wooden box is placed in the center and is also used as a garden bed, or this space is left for storing equipment.
Please note! If you're creating a garden bed in the center of the greenhouse, make it as wide as possible. Paths will lead to it on both sides, making it easy to care for the plants.
Helpful tips:
- Weeds can grow along walkways. They need to be removed promptly, otherwise they will not only become a nuisance underfoot and create an untidy appearance, but also interfere with crop development by growing rapidly.
- The side beds shouldn't be more than 1 meter wide, as this will make it difficult for plants growing further out. And don't step on them, as this will negatively impact their development.
- If you have a central bed, it is recommended to make it square so that you can approach it from any side.
- It's also recommended to consider ceiling mounts and hang some additional plants from them. Trailing flowers, green vegetables, and lilies of the valley grow particularly well this way.
Options for fencing garden beds
As mentioned earlier, you don't need to buy materials for formwork; you can make it from what you have lying around in the shed:
Wooden fence
This is the most common, collapsible, and inexpensive option, but it's also short-lived. Any boards, beams, or pallets will do. Wooden boxes hold their shape well, provide drainage, and are easy to move from one location to another.
However, wood rots quickly in high humidity and can become a pest infestation. To prevent this, the formwork should be treated with special compounds, preferably with drying oil or paint. It is recommended to do this every season.
Asbestos-cement tiles or corrugated slate sheets
These materials are affordable and durable. However, they have their drawbacks. Without proper construction skills, they can be difficult to install. Furthermore, corners and special fasteners are required. Furthermore, asbestos is a carcinogen, which can have negative health effects. Another drawback is that these materials pose a risk of injury.
Concrete and brick formwork
The installation materials are inexpensive and durable, but this type of structure is permanent. Therefore, when erecting it, the placement of the boxes, their length, and width must be carefully considered. If you want to change anything later, you'll have to start over from scratch.
Metal boxes
An ideal option for creating greenhouse beds. Galvanized formwork will last for many years and is portable. Individual sheets or prefabricated boxes are available at the store. This type of formwork has only one drawback: its high cost. However, its long service life will pay for itself.
Ceramics, plastic, polycarbonate
Pots and containers made from the first two materials are easy to store on shelves; they're lightweight, so they won't put much strain on the shelves. Polycarbonate should be inserted into a frame made of metal angles, creating a sturdy formwork that retains its shape well. The disadvantage of these materials is their high cost. However, polycarbonate can be left over after the greenhouse is built.
Please note! Pre-galvanized fencing can become very hot in the sun, transferring heat into the soil. This can damage plant roots. To prevent this, treat the fencing with a special polymer coating.
Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse
To better understand how to organize space in a greenhouse, let's look at an example.
From the crops, we will take tomatoes from the greenhouse types that have dimensions of 3 by 6 m.
| Indicator | Layout of 2 beds | 3 beds |
| Peculiarities | It's recommended to place rows along the long sides. The width can be 1 m, leaving room for a spacious path. | This layout is the most preferable. Beds can be made 1 meter wide, leaving 50 cm between rows, the minimum for tomatoes. |
| Landing plan |
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| Count | You can plant 60 bushes if you leave a gap of 60 cm between rows and 40 cm between plants. | If you compact the gap to 30 cm, you can place 20 bushes in a row. |
Recommendation! When choosing a three-bed layout, it is recommended to plant determinate varieties in the outer rows, as the greenhouse has a low height near the walls.
It's best to form the side rows into two vines, leaving a larger gap (about 40 cm). This is necessary because tomato plants are large and require good nutrition. If they become too dense, they won't receive enough nutrients.
When planting different tomato varieties in the beds, consider their ripening speed. Mid-season and mid-early varieties are recommended to be planted closer to the center. Early-ripening varieties are best grown on the sides.
In conclusion, I'd like to add that this article provides recommendations for standard greenhouses measuring 3 by 4 meters and 3 by 6 meters. You can build them yourself or buy them pre-assembled at the store. By creating proper beds in them, you'll be able to plant a variety of crops, resulting in a bountiful harvest. Moreover, if the greenhouse is heated, sowing is possible from early spring through winter, meaning year-round.
